Sunday, 11 October 2020

Cocktails - Southside


Continuing my experimenting with sours, I came across the Southside, another cocktail in the classic sour mold.

This seems actually to be a daiquiri variation, except that instead of the rum it uses gin. Fine with me! I'm happy to try gin with just about anything - I got a brilliant "creamy tomato and gin" sauce from Real Pasta at the Tauranga Farmers Market the other week which was most tasty - so a Southside it was.

(Actually, to be more accurate, it's a Gimlet which is essentially a daiquiri using gin instead of rum. This is a variation on that - a Gimlet with mint and bitters added...)

Those are the other factors in the drink: mint leaves, something to add a bit of freshness, and also a dash of bitters which muddies up the flavour a bit and adds complexity. If you've got a bit of mint in the garden this is another cocktail you're likely to have all the ingredients for (every home should have a bottle of Angostura bitters just for emergencies - it lasts forever). The recipe I used specified Plymouth gin but I reckon any London dry style gin would work just as well.

As I was using my new wonderfully elegant Nick 'n' Nora coupes I made a small drink. Two in fact as you can see from the picture, since Cohen was visiting. They were very very good, with just the vaguest hint of mint and the gin shining though. This is a terrific cocktail if you like to actually taste your gin! 

As I say, these are quantities for a small drink and it's one you need to double strain unless you like tiny little specks of mint in your drink (which are, admittedly, quite attractive!). Double the quantities for a big glass or just scale things up any way you like if you prefer a larger tipple...

SOUTHSIDE
5 mint leaves
40ml Plymouth gin
15ml fresh lime juice
15ml simple syrup (50/50 sugar/water)
1 dash Angostura bitters

garnish - mint leaf

Muddle the mint leaves in a cocktail shaker. Add all the other ingredients and shake with ice. Double strain into a chilled coupe. Garnish with a mint leaf.

NOTE: The is apparently great discussion in expert cocktail-making circles as to whether this cocktail should be made with fresh lime or fresh lemon juice. I happen to have limes so used those because there's something about mint and lime together that feels right. I haven't yet made it with lemon but I'm sure it will be equally delicious.


Saturday, 10 October 2020

Two low budget horror films

There are two types of horror film. The first are those that are films for everyone which just happen to be horror films: The Exorcist, The Others, The Shining, and many other not called "The Something". The second are films for horror audiences which will hold little interest to general filmwatchers without a specific horror bent.
 
Both these films are in that second category. They are horror films for fans of horror films. And, as such, both have much to recommend them. They are both also flawed in many ways, and both are low-budget affairs, but that doesn't actually detract much from the fun. If you like the genre you will probably enjoy both these entries. They may not change the world but they provide some well-engineered bloody entertainment.
 
HOSTS (2020)
Directors: Adam Leader, Richard Oakes
Starring: Neal Ward, Nadia Lamin, Frank Jakeman
Runtime 89 min
 


We start on a train. The lone occupant disembarks and walks across a lock toward a field. We see the field - a strange man with a shotgun and a Santa suit is walking across it. They slowly approach each other...
 
Actually I missed something important. We start with ominous music. Very ominous. So by the time the guy from the train and the guy in the field meet we're expecting... Something Big.
 
But then the music stops and they start bantering. They're actually old mates getting ready for Christmas dinner together, one of them hunting pheasant for the feast. (A little late, I'd suggest - you're going to need to hang those birds...)
 
It's a striking start and flags that the filmmakers have a solid grasp of mood and image. It bodes well. And the spooky music and misdirection are a sign of things to come. The tension ramps up from about ten minutes in and doesn't stop after that.
 
With mysterious lights reported on the news, the seven diners - a likeable bunch given deft character development - assemble for dinner, unaware that the two visitors have already been possessed by said lights.
 
Needless to say dinner is a bit of a write off as the guests proceed to do horrible things to the family. It's a slightly unusual mix of possession and home invasion action as family secrets are spilled along with a large amount of blood, and more possessing and unpleasantness occurs.
 
But for all that, and all the oppressive atmosphere generated, this is actually a bit slight, not much is explained or revealed and it looks like the most interesting bits were the opening and what might be about to happen just after the film ends. A fine ride to an anticlimactic destination.  
 

THE DEAD ONES (2019)
Director: Jeremy Kasten
Starring: Sarah Rose Harper, Brandon Thane Wilson, Katie Foster, Torey Garza
Runtime: 73 min

 

The Dead Ones comes with a backstory: it was actually filmed in 2009 but because of the subject matter and the sensitivity of people to school shootings it was impossible to raise completion funding or find distribution. It has now done that but director Kasten in the meantime apparently quit filmmaking for a life of farming. So this is his belated swansong, and pretty striking it is too.
 
It opens with four kids arriving to clean up a deserted vandalised high school under headmistress supervision. But it's the middle of the night and the whole idea doesn't seem even vaguely convincing. And the school looks like a riot has taken place or worse.
 
It's so off-kilter that seasoned horror watchers will immediately assume that the schoolkids are all dead and in some sort of lesson-learning limbo. But that doesn't really explain the four menacing masked figures who show up with trenchcoats, chains, guns and bombs.
 
Except that it actually does. 
 
The "they were dead all along" horror trope is so worn out by now that I run screaming from such films (and not in a good way) but this variation of the theme had me pretty impressed, and assumes that you recognise the set-up. It has a dream-like, or nightmare-like mood and keeps twisting and turning within its premise, keeping the small reveals coming even if we all know the broad strokes.
 
And, dare I say it, I think they actually approach the school shooting subject with something resembling complexity and even nuance.
 
And, of course, it's only 73 minutes long - perhaps the money wasn't there for more footage - and doesn't outstay its welcome. For a short sharp shock you could do a lot worse, even if the narrative is familiar. It's a very creditable final film from Kasten (who was previously responsible for The Theatre Bizarre, Thirst, and the The Wizard of Gore remake). We wish him well in his new life...  

Thursday, 8 October 2020

A quick dinner at Dumpling Delight

Dumpling Delight
Cuisine: Dumplings, Nothwestern Chinese
Address: 20 Wharf St, Tauranga
Phone: 07 5712166
Drinks: Beer, soft drinks - some unusual 
Reservations: Probably unnecessary
 
 
Dumpling Delight has been a regular stop for us since it opened about a year ago. As a no-frills place for cheap eats it is top-notch. You'll need to help yourself to cutlery, glasses and anything else, but the service is always cheerful and the food excellent. And they do very good, very well-priced dumplings.
Dumplings (some already eaten)

In terms of Chinese food Dumpling Delight leans towards Northwestern cuisine but they do a bit of everything. It's an interesting place because some dishes are extremely authentic and others are not even vaguely so. It is also the sort of place where there are more than a few misprints on the menu and descriptions that seem strange or vague. Witness one of the dishes we ate: "Fried Chicken with Sauce". But that's part of the charm I've always thought. Bottom line - everything tastes pretty damn good!

The menu has handy options for all situations. As well as the main meals - well priced at between $18 and $24 - they also do noodle soups (a solid meal for one) and some tasty snacks. The section marked "pasta" is worth checking out too, where both the onion and leek pancakes are unusual and delicious (if nothing to do with pasta). There are also some excellent vegetarian dishes.

Sweet Sour Pork with Rice

But the thing we regularly go for is the section called Rice Bowls. These are essentially smaller versions of the main meals and are served with rice. They are all $14.80. If I was there with half a dozen people I'd go for sharing some main meals but for two, a couple of rice bowls and a plate of dumplings is perfect.

Jan and I were there during the huge power cut last week. It was off here from 2pm until 11pm so we wanted sustanance. Unusually, we went for plain Cantonese choices. Normally we head straight for the Lamb with Cumin or Sichuan Pork but with the stress of no power for the day both of us were in need of comfort food.

Here's what we had:

Dumplings: Pork Delicacies (Pork, leek, shrimp) - $12.80 for 16  (add $1 for fried)
 
Sweet Sour Pork with Rice (pineapple, pork, vegetables) - $14.80
 
Fried Chicken with Sauce
Fried Chicken with Sauce - $14.80



That was exactly the right amount of food and exactly what we were after. Rich and comforting. The pork was in crisp batter, the "sauce" on the chicken is what some people would call a "brown sauce" typical of Chinese restaurants the world over. And the dumplings, as always, were juicy and had a great texture from the frying.

Some suggestions for your dining pleasure... The dishes with heat are marked with a chilli on the menu: I'd suggest ordering them "medium" which is a good heat level, though of course some of the Sichuan dishes - which are the ones with a chilli - would originally be much hotter. And always get the dumplings fried - the extra $1 is well worth it.

The two dishes we tend to avoid are the Ma Po Tofu and Kung Pao Chicken, both of which are very loose "Chinese takeaway" versions of those noble dishes. In comparison, the Soy Sauce Pork, the Beef Fillets in Hot Chilli Oil, the Cumin Lamb, and Sichuan Pork and much else is absolutely authentic. Go figure.

But it's easy to take the odd rough edges and occasional strangeness here when the service is so friendly and the food is so very reasonably priced. It may not be as polished as other eateries but for my money this and Chidori Ramen are the best cheap Asian eats in town.

Tuesday, 6 October 2020

Sous-Vide Cooking #1 - The set-up & 48 hour beef ribs

I don't know if anyone out there reading this cooks using the sous-vide method. Someone must. The problem with living somewhere small like Tauranga is that it's hard to find people into the things you are.

I actually know not a single person doing this, certainly not any of my friends. Consequently, I've been discovering what to do by myself with only the internet for company... and I'm happy to share what I've learned. I have grown to be a big fan of this method - I would highly recommend you give it a crack! 

      

Sous-vide cooking is where you put your food inside a vacuum-sealed bag and then cook it submerged in water. Sorta boil-in-a-bag but with added subtlety.No actual boiling for a start. The whole point of this method is that the water will cook whatever is in it only up to the temperature of the water.

So if you want a steak with an internal temperature of 55/131 degrees (which is what it should be for a medium rare steak) you cook it in water at 55/131 degrees until it has time to cook through to that temperature. An hour or two depending on thickness. The steak can't overcook because it never gets any hotter than the desired end temperature. You can then hold the steak, put it in the fridge, or even freeze it till you need it. All you have to do at the last minute is sear it briefly and, voila, perfectly cooked steaks every time!

The added advantage of this method is that after a certain length of time whatever you're cooking starts to break down. Just as meat slow-cooked in a casserole gets more tender, so meat cooked sous-vide does the same. It just takes longer because of the low temperature.

My approach to exploring sous-vide cooking was to find the cheapest way I could do it at home since most restaurant set-ups, with “water baths" and all sorts of flash devices for mass production, were a bit out of my budget. And I just wanted to try it – I wasn't about to fork out hundreds for something I might decide I didn't like after all...

What I bought was a Living & Co sous vide “wand”, which looks a bit like a stick blender. I think it was $69 on special from The Warehouse. (I believe they have since been discontinued - I'm in the process of buying a new brand on TradeMe for $100 - I will report back!) 

It has a small element halfway down the stick which can be set to your desired temperature and a fan right at the bottom  that keeps the water circulating for a constant temperature.

Then I borrowed a cheap vacuum-sealer from a friend (who later gave it to me – thanks Deb!). I've since bought more vacuum bags for it, which were pretty cheap. And I've got a big preserving pot I use for making marmalade to use as the "bath".

And I have to report – it works brilliantly!

I've cooked all sorts of things in it, from pork chops to steaks, eggs and more. Most things like that need cooking for around an hour and a half (less for eggs).

But last week I went for broke and cooked some beef short ribs for 48 hours. 48 hours! This may be old news to y'all but it was a new experience for me. Short ribs, being a tougher cut, require much longer cooking to break down and become tender. Jan thought I was crazy and I was a bit worried the water might evaporate overnight but it was actually no problem. 

The reason for the extravagant timing was that I was lucky enough to buy some Wagyu short ribs (from First Light via Pak N Save Tauriko) and they were the most beautiful-looking marbled beef, so I thought they merited some extra time and love.

I seasoned them, vacuum-sealed them in a bag and then just put them in the water with no other flavourings, at 55 degrees. For 50 hours. Then I opened the bag, patted them dry, and fried them at very high heat for a minute each side to give them a char and a crust.

And I have to report that they were pretty much the best short ribs I've ever had – still medium rare, but also tender and incredibly richly-flavoured, like a fantastic steak but more unctuous. They were flat out sensational! 

YUM!
The timer hits "24 hours to go"!

 






 

 

 

 

 

 

Anyway, this was just a brief intro and mention of sous-vide cooking. There will be more, and more with more precise details.

(BTW, I served the short ribs with some homemade loquat BBQ sauce, potatoes braised in white wine with garlic and pepitos, and a fennel, cos, coriander, pecan and pineapple salad. I know, the pineapple sounds weird but it goes really well with the fruity BBQ sauce. And Jan likes it...)

NOTE: The sous vide "wand", which seemed a bit unhappy, did indeed die last week after cooking this. And, yes, they have been discontinued. I have bought a new one from Warkworth via Trade Me. It looks particularly groovy. Next up - pork chops, which are brilliant cooked sous vide!

Sunday, 4 October 2020

The Doorman review

THE DOORMAN (2020)
Director: Ryuhei Kitamura
Stars:Ruby Rose, Jean Reno, Rupert Evans,
Runtime:

And good grief, this is stupid stuff - just dumb, cliched and dumb - badly written, illogically plotted and with achingly awful dialogue. The family's stoner son shows a particularly disjointed collection of behaviours while his father spouts tone-deaf academic nonsense in the face of semi-automatic weaponary.

Diractor Kitamura is a B-movie genre hopper. His most recent was Downrange (2017) wherein people stranded at the side of the road after a tire blowout get picked off by a mysterious sniper, but he is best known for supernatural action flick Versus (2000) and horror entry The Midnight Meat Train (2008), perhaps mainly notable for Vinnie Jones' presence. He makes a perfectly good fist of The Doorman, either ignoring or unaware of the innate stupidity permeating every frame.

Variations on the plot have of course been done a thousand times over. But here we are light years away from recent state-of-the-art actions films with Denzel or Charlize or Keanu or other A-listers. This most resembles an old Jean Claude Van Damme vehicle. 

Since the genre is mostly male-dominated, does having a woman in the lead role make the film any more interesting? Actually, yes. Does it make the film any better? Not even for the briefest tiniest millisecond...