Soup and more at Pho Vina

PHO VINA

Cuisine: Vietnamese, Asian

Address: 15 Wharf Street, Tauranga

Phone: 07-579 4443

Website: not that I can find...

Drinks: beer, house wine, Vietnamese fruit wines

Reservations: probably unnecessary

I really like Pho Vina. Go there for great soup. And Jeff.

It is an oddly mysterious restaurant. It doesn't appear to have a website. There is a Pho Vina in Auckland though I have been unable to find any connection. But go to Wharf Street and the guy in charge, named Jeff I believe, is always extremely courteous, efficient, and friendly. And they make absolutely killer stocks for their soups. 

(This lack of a website makes it tricky to find their food on-line. As a public service I took pics of the menu. They're at the bottom - click to enlarge.)

Whereas just across Wharf Street at Dumpling Delight the feel is "authentic" because of a slightly rundown funky vibe, Pho Vina is the opposite and just as "authentic" because of it, with a minimalist wooden look, clean and meticulously tidy.

But I find the greatest oddity is that they don't use any "local" descriptions on the (surprisingly small) menu. As the restaurant name suggests, one of the soups is indeed Vietnamese Beef Pho. But it's not called that. It's called Beef Noodle Soup. It's in a section called "Noodle".  If it wasn't for the picture you wouldn't know what it was. The whole menu is like that. There are eleven soups from various countries, though you really need to study the pics to work out what they are...

But don't be put off - they make specific stocks for each of them. The "pho" stock, for instance, is very different from the Wonton Soup stock. And all are simply excellent. 

The other day we popped by for lunch and it was the first time I'd seen the place open to the street. It looked good! We had...

• Pork & Prawn Fresh Rolls (2)   $6
• Fried Wontons (4)   $6
• Beef Wonton Noodle Soup     $16
• Stir-fry Beef Vermicelli    $17

 

 

 

 

 

The fresh rolls rock! Rice paper-wrapped, big prawns, tangy dipping sauce - fine value for $6. The wontons were also better than most examples, tasty filling and cooked right. And the soup was, as always, top notch, great stock, good ingredients, big bowl. Cohen was happy.

On the other hand, I rather screwed up with what I wanted, not realising that the stir-fried description referred to just the meat. It was a "noodle bowl", cold noodles and vegetables with stir-fried meat on top, all of which was there to mix with a jar of mildly spicy sauce (good combo!). It was fresh and refreshing but I had a hankering for stir-fried noodles so was somewhat disappointed. My own fault. 

The restaurant also does fried rices and a "Steam Boat" option, a bowl of hot stock on top of a burner, where you cook your own ingredients (though it looks more like a Japanese Shabu Shabu than a Chinese steamboat to me. I may be wrong.). A couple at a nearby table was having one and it looked pretty damn good with some impressively-sized prawns.

So, bottom line - it may look a bit straight, and the menu descriptions are somewhat minimalist, but the soups in particular are fantastic and well worth a visit for. Just watch out for their hot chilli paste. You can see it in the pic next to the soup. Jeff will warn you it is hot - do not for an instant doubt him or it will rip your throat out..       

Outside (Jeff on the left)

Inside (Jeff on the right)

Stopping at the Bistro (at The Falls Retreat)

THE FALLS RETREAT Bistro
Cuisine: Fresh seasonal bistro
Address: 25 Waitawheta Rd, Waikino 
Phone: 07-863 8770
Website 
Drinks: Fully licensed
Reservations: Recommended

I've never been there at night, or stayed in their cottages or done any of their cooking or gardening workshops, but if I'm driving from Tauranga up to Auckland through the Karangahake Gorge I always try and time the trip so I can stop for lunch at the Bistro at The Falls Retreat. It's tucked half way through, just across an old bridge.

Over about the past decade owners Brad King and Emma Walters have created a magical little spot, a restaurant and function venue, with accommodation and extensive vegetable gardens, where they can practice their paddock to plate ethos, reminding everyone how good food can taste when it is absolutely fresh and made with love and from scratch.

Last week on a visit to Auckland with a friend we stopped for a quick bite. This brief description does the place no justice as we only had one plate of food each and both chose the same thing. I find that's what happens when the fish of the day is John Dory. If that's on the menu I just say "Yes!". So did Russell.

Fish - John Dory with potato, leek chive & lemon croquette, white anchovy & preserved lemon aioli, a radish, cherry tomato, strawberry& mungbean fragrant herb salad with Nahm Jim dressing and Furikake quinoa crunch $35

What can I say? The fish was sensational, the potato cake perfect, the two sauces excellent (the anchovy just brought a very subtle saltiness to proceedings) and the salad... WOW! The salad was out of this world, reminding us yet again the difference between fresh little vegetables plucked straight from the earth and... well, everything else.

I could mention that there is a small and very well-chosen wine list, and that the Bistro makes its own sodas and other things. And does very popular pizzas and superb platters. But what really makes them stand out is that freshly foraged food. It not only tastes incredible but pretty much makes you feel healthier even as you eat it! Do yourselves a favour - if you haven't been here, take a drive and treat yourselves - you will be amazed. 

NOTE: Since this review the Bistro at Falls Retreat has changed its dining format. You'd be best to check their website to see what they are currently doing...

A birthday lunch at Clarence

CLARENCE BISTRO
Cuisine: Fine dining bistro, Italian influence
Address: 51 Willow Street, Tauranga 
Phone: 07 574 8200
Website 
Drinks: Fully licensed
Reservations: Recommended

It was my birthday last week so you can bet your life I took the chance to eat out and generally treat myself as often as absolutely possible. First up was a lunch at Clarence Bistro with #1 son Cohen. It had been a while since I'd been to Clarence and I keep hearing nothing but good things. And we'd both been eyeing up their groovy-sounding snacks and starters. 

It was a quiet Tuesday with nothing happening so we settled in with the thought that we'd just nibble our way through as many of their entrees as we could. As should be obvious by now, I like that kinda small plate sharing approach to eating, and a little birthday indulgence seemed not unreasonable.

Without further ado, this is what we started with...

• Clarence Charcuterie - Today’s Cured Meat, Szechuan Pickled Cucumber, Seeded Mustard   $15
• Wagyu Tartare - Wagyu Beef, Kimchi, Beef Tendon, Oyster Emulsion   $15
• Robata Skewers - Wagyu Beef, Chicken Heart, Kingfish Belly, Spring Onion, Soy Caramel   $19
• Petite Veg Garden - Petite Vegetables, Horseradish Labneh, Rye Crumb   $14

Charcuterie

Robata Skewers

Wagyu Tartare

Petite Veg Garden

 

 

 

 

 

 

These are all listed as "snacks" on the menu and indeed they are. Things like the dinky tartare crackers resembled fancy amuse bouches one might get at restaurants where such things are served. And they were brilliant, the kimchi - not too strong - giving them a complexity and edge, the crisp crackers meticulously made from dried and fried beef tendons, and the oyster emulsion adding creaminess and salt. I could easily get through a dozen a day.

Those crackers were my pick though everything was good. The skewered bits were great: juicy kingfish and amazing-tasting spring onion (both of us were surprised quite how good a small amount of glazed spring onion could taste with that soy caramel on it!). 

And the charcuterie was top notch, their own air dried beef, with pokey mustard seeds popping in your mouth and lightly-pickled cucumber (I didn't spot the Szechuan touch). Head Chef Perin Yates was there for the lunch service and told us each of the chefs has their own charcuterie project, dry or wet curing their choice of meat. Later, one of the other chefs brought over a little pork guanciale that he'd been working on - it was really good!

The veg garden was simple and refreshing, crisp baby vegetables, sea succulents and a savoury crumb, although the horseradish in the labneh was a little overpowering. 

• Tomato - Smoked Tomato, Courgette Flower, Ricotta, Garden Herbs, Tomato Water   $21
• Venison - Venison Carpaccio, Fermented Cherry, Pistachio, Dark Chocolate, Raspberry   $21
• Mushroom - Mushroom Dumpling, Smoked Eel, Pickled Oyster Mushroom, Bamboo Shoots   $23
  

Tomato

Venison

Mushroom

On to some entrees and what can I say? Each was outstanding with the tomato being my pick of the bunch. It arrived freshly smoking under a cloche and then had clear tomoato water poured over. The smoke - a mixture of hickory and cherry - gave the tomato an otherworldly taste, almost like it had ham in it, while the (housemade) ricotta added creaminess and the herbs and flowers little accents of flavour. Beautiful to look at, even better to eat. I'd go back for this alone.

The venison was close to as good, perfectly accompanied by the bite of fresh raspberries and richness of their own fermented cherries. The shaved chocolate added another subtle layer. And the mushroom dish was a delight, the smoked eel adding a distinct saltiness that lurked just at the back of the palate while the dumplings themselves surprised by holding a delicious spicy laksa mixture.  

We rounded things off with a big plate of meat.

• Dry Aged Beef For Two - Dry Aged Ribeye On The Bone, Bone Marrow, Seeded Mustard, BBQ Greens   $90 
  

Dry Aged Beef for Two

Chef Yates brought out the rib eye steak to show us before he cooked it, a huge beast of a thing, dark and dry and mysterious after 55 days of dry aging. It looked incredible and when he brought it back, cooked absolutely expertly (he had already explained the complex cooking method to get it perfectly cooked to the bone without overcooking the outside) - damn! It was rich, meaty, fatty (yes it is the tastiest part), oh just incredible. My mouth is watering writing about it. 

And just about as good was the bone marrow mayo that accompanied it and the jus, so strong and intense it couldn't have been reduced even a drop further. This was absolute meat indulgence. It was wonderful. 

After that any thought of dessert went right out the window. After you've eaten the best beef of the year you don't need much else to follow.

Winewise, we indulged by the glass. The winelist from the Bistro isn't online but it is very impressive. The by-the-glass selection is well chosen and the main list is huge with a lot of interesting Italian wines along with some unusual Kiwi offerings.

• 2019 Black Estate Damsteep Riesling, Waipara   $13.5
• 2019 Te Kano Pinot Gris, Central Otago   $13
• 2018 Takapoto Pinot Noir, Central Otago   $16.5
• 2018 Motolo Jester Shiraz, McLaren Vale, Australia    $15
• 2016 Mills Reef Elspeth Syrah, Hawke's Bay   $23

They were a good bunch. The Riesling was very dry but opened up as it warmed up and had beautiful lemon, lime and orange notes. The Pinot Gris was light but intense.

 

The Takapoto is a favourite and we both had a glass. It is drinking very well for a 2018 with cherry and raspberry fruit flavours and some earthier tones, silky smooth and with some lovely floral/herby aromatics - it seemed the perfect wine to go with the venison and mushroom and indeed sat nicely with them (particularly the venison).

 

We had the bigger reds with the beef and it was Elspeth that shone. It really was great, with dark berry flavours and a hint of white pepper and a good solid backbone. I can only see it improving but it's lovely right now. As to the Aussie Shiraz, good but Cohen lamented its lack of acidity. I agreed.

 

Executive Chef Perrin Yates

Overall I reckon Clarence is knocking it out of the park right now. They are fast becoming my favourite restaurant in Tauranga with their attention to detail and meticulous approach to making so much food in-house, aging, curing, fermenting, really taking trouble over their ingredients. 

 

Add to that ideas like the "Kitchen Mutiny" nights, during which, every fortnight, the junior chefs get to design and present their own 5-course degustation meal. It's a brilliant concept, giving them experience and allowing them to show off their growing skills. It's a great idea in principle and works just as well in practice - Chef Yates is rocking it - he's running a very exciting kitchen and has a great team. I can't wait to see what they do next!

Luxe snacks at Craggy Range

CRAGGY RANGE Restaurant

Cuisine: Contemporary New Zealand

Address: 253 Waimarama Road, Havelock North

Phone: 06 873 7126

Website

Drinks: Mainly Craggy Range wines 

Reservations: definitely

I love the restaurant at Craggy Range. I first ate there back in the early days when David Griffiths and Prue Barton (now of Mister D's) were in charge but I reckon the current incarnation under Head Chef Casey McDonald is as good as it's ever been, with his emphasis on the very best locally-sourced ingredients along with the restaurant's immaculate standards out front and in the kitchen.

The place itself is simply about the flashest winery in the country, beautiful and grand and open, vast lawns and a pond, sculptures and a helipad, all resting under the imposing figure of Te Mata Peak.

So when - after a fun day playing at the River Park Blues Festival in Waipawa and on our way to an afternoon gig out at Cape Kidnappers - we found ourselves with a few free hours on the Sunday I couldn't resist hitting Craggy Range at lunch time. Just in case. Despite the fact that we had no reservation. And it was Valentine's Day. Just in case...

Of course they were fully booked. Of course. But they are fine people and offered us snacks on the terrace with a glass of wine. That's a big YES.

There is a small menu of four snacks, one dessert and two platters (cheese - $29 and cheese/charcuterie - $55). We had the four snacks.

• Organic fried shitake mushroom, fig sauce   $18
• Beef cheek croquettes, salsa verde & mustard aioli (5)   $16
• Raw venison and beetroot jubes, horseradish cream, duck egg & crispy parsnip   $26
• Shoestring fries   $9

 

 

   

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

And they were, with the possible exception of the fries which were just good fries, absolutely sensational! We were all completely blown away. 

 

• The mushrooms, cut thinly and then coated in a batter that was slightly nutty and thicker than a tempura so they were like crisps with the most amazing subtle sweet and sour fig sauce that I bet came from local Te Mata figs - incredible! 

• The croquettes, small, delicate with a great fresh salsa verde kick - brilliant. (And here's a demonstration of the absolute class that Craggy Range continually demonstrates - the menu listed 5 croquettes. There were 3 of us. They brought 6 and didn't even ever mention it. Thanks guys!)

• But the star of the show was the venison tartare. I'm still in awe of it with those beetroot jubes, juice that had been reformed into firm jellies, not too strong, not too sweet, the same size as the tartare and subtle enough to let the venison still shine. The egg yolk was cured or confited or something to make it unctuous and the parsip crisps were small and perfect (and crisp). The horseradish was very subtle and the whole thing a masterpiece of texture and taste. Wow.

 

It was the most wonderful way to wile away an hour, sitting in the lap of luxury with a nice glass of Craggy Range wine (a current Riesling for me, Pinot Gris for Grant, and a Garage Project beer for Nicky, all priced as you'd expect. There are also older vintages available of the reds.). Everything was flawless from the food to the views to the service. One of New Zealand's very best. 

  

 

Tapas in Taupo at Vine

VINE Eatery & Bar

Cuisine: Mediterranean & New Zealand

Address: 37 Tuwharetoa St, Taupo

Phone: 07-378 5704

Website

Drinks: wine, craft beer, cocktails

Reservations: it does get busy...

Three of us were passing through Taupo on the way to Hawke's Bay and wanted a dinner break. We rolled into Vine at 7.30pm on a Friday night without a reservation. 

It was incredibly busy and the place is huge. Seriously huge. There are different areas all over the place, around the fireplace, table and booth settings indoors and out, and even two private rooms upstairs. As soon as we were seated I figured we'd made a mistake - with so many people there seemed little chance of anything resembling a quick bite.

How wrong I was. The service was swift and efficient and, despite the crowd, the food came with no noticeable delay. Good work guys!

They also have a huge menu, stretching from tapas and starters to pastas, platters, regular main courses (which sounded delicious) and more. Again that can often be a bad sign but here each dish was distinct and focused. We decided to share a bunch of stuff so ordered from the tapas section.

• Tempura cauliflower wings w sweet and sour glaze  $14
• Portobello mushrooms, macadamia, sundried tomato & gorgonzola (GF) (V) $16
• Paella balls, prawns, chicken, squid, chorizo, panko crumbed w spicy salsa & aioli  $16
• Panko crumbed squid w tartare sauce $15
• Smoked lamb & wild thyme croquettes w peppercorn & mint jus $15

 

Lamb croquettes

 

Mushrooms

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Squid

 

 

 

 

 

 

Cauliflower

 

 

Paella Balls

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

  What can I say? We were all very happy. Things that particularly caught my attention were:

• The Paella balls were quite spicy and really good - almost a paella play on arancini (and given that arancini means "little orange" they really did look like arancini!). 
• The squid looks a little overcooked but it wasn't - it's just a dark colour. 
• Caulifower was fantastic, just the right amount of crisp and with a delicious sauce - very popular. 
• The mushrooms were very groovy - I don't remember having nuts with mushrooms before and the macadamias worked well as did the little hits of blue cheese. 
• But the winner for me were the croquettes, just the right amount of smokiness from the lamb and with a great sauce. And properly made with a bechamel sauce holding the lamb inside the crumb. Damn fine! 

We didn't have anything very interesting to drink, though I had a very nice C/O Pinot Noir. It seemed foolish to hoe into their cocktails with another couple of hours driving ahead. But if you're in Taupo I can highly recommend Vine.

 

All in all it is an incredibly impressive operation, especially given its size and the fact that it's open seven days from 11am. Excellent service and excellent food, all delivered in a timely fashion and reasonably priced. What more can one ask?