PALACE
Cuisine: American diner-style burgers and wingsAddress: 217 Maunganui Rd, Mount Maunganui
Phone: 07-572 1550
Drinks: Tap beer, natural wine, cocktails
Reservations: Not sure it's an option
For some time now I've been hearing about this very funky burger place at the Mount. It's been a busy time, but I managed to pop in and enjoy a quick burger, along with a cocktail. And got some wings to take away for later...
The first thing that surprised me about the joint is quite how grungy it appears. I mean that in nothing but a good way. When I heard it was modeled as an American Diner I immediately thought of something clean and shiny like the Burger King that used to be next to the cinema in town, all bright lights and Happy Days music. But this certainly ain't that.
There's still definitely that fifties vibe all diner-style restaurant seem to exude but at Palace there's more than a touch of juvenile delinquent in the mix. If it were a boy it would be a bad boy; if there were tracks Palace would be on the wrong side of them. It's got a slightly dark 'n' dangerous look, perhaps because of the mesh on the window, and this is carried on by the music, good dirty Americana Southern rock. It works.
But the service was quick, friendly and efficient and - as you can see in the pic - it's a bit of magnet for families as well as the generally hip and happening.
The menu lists 3 meat burgers, 3 chicken, and 3 vegetarian (mushroom, jackfruit and cauliflower respectively) as well as chicken and cauliflower wings. There are also sides and desserts.The drinks menu has cocktails, beer on tap, some interesting shakes and wine, with several natural wines also on tap.
HOEDOWN - BRISKET SMASHED PATTY, CHEESE, BEER BATTERED ONION RINGS, BACON, JALAPEÑO JAM, BBQ & CHIPOTLE MAYO SINGLE $15 DOUBLE add $4
- MAPLE BUTTER BASKET - SOUTHERN FRIED CHICKEN WINGS COVERED IN OUR MAPLE BUTTER SAUCE $14
- PASSIONFRUIT MIMOSA - PROSECCO, ORANGE, PASSION FRUIT $12
And, as you can see from the pics, the "grunginess" continues with the food. The burger was what you might call "Burger King Style" with a small soft bun as opposed to a big toasted one and no sign of anything green. It wasn't very pretty. But taste-wise, with its smashed brisket pattie, this was light years ahead of any chain. In fact all those listed ingredients were present and correct and combined into a thing of total deliciousness - crisp bacon and onion ring, oozing cheese, tasty sauces, damn!
The mimosa was also very good, just what I felt like, and when I had the wings at home they were most excellent, and fantastically unhealthy-tasting with that maple butter! I would happily eat everything here again and look forward to trying literally everything on the menu.
SOME FINAL THOUGHTS
In my mind, Palace is actually doing something very new and very cool. It is, in an offbeat way, the complete package - perfectly matched food, decor, drinks and vibe - along with a bunch of fascinating contradictions which I think are the reason it feels, despite the retro trappings, so modern.
First of all you have the extensive (and imaginative) vegetarian options. And you have the natural wine, pretty much a first for the Bay especially in a burger bar! These would suggest some sort of health-consciousness, but then look at that burger - it has nothing healthy in it at all just deep-fried stuff and fattening sauces. And I'm sure the maple butter sauce - mouthwateringly good as it is - should probably come with a health warning.
Then there's the down-beat look of the place. It seems very "adult", like a David Lynch biker bar, yet most of the people in when I was there were happy families...
Something is happening here and I don't know quite what it is. But I like it!
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